How did we spend our Christmas Eve?
First we travelled over the pass from Benabbio through Boveglio past Colognora to Collodi and thence to San Gennaro where we visited the marzipan (mmmmm) crib in Palazzo Bocella done by the students of the management and catering school there.
Next door there was more to see in the wonderful Romanesque parish church including this exquisite sculpture of an angel by Leonardo da Vinci executed when he was still a pupil of Verrocchio. It’s Leonardo’s one surviving sculpture and was only identified as by the master at the end of the last century.
Remember the angels Leonardo painted for Christ’s baptism for his teacher Verrocchio and which you can see in Florence’s Uffizi?
There are lots more to see in San Gennaro’s pieve including an ancient wooden statue of San Gennaro himself:
A beautiful pulpit:
And marvellous capitals on the columns.
Then back to Collodi with its literary associations and that giant Pinocchio on the way out.
Then past ‘Caspita’, the Chinese shop by the roundabout at the end of Viale Europa, for some last minute shopping.
Then for an evening meal (it’s traditional in Italy to eat fish-based courses on Christmas Eve) at Da Pinzo in Ponte a Moriano. Our course included a delicious plate of farfalle with salmon:
and bacalà (cod) with capers and potatoes:
Then, leaving the car at Ponte a Moriano we climbed into the navetta (shuttle bus –‘ literally ‘little ship’) for Midnight Mass with the best music around at the Convento dell’Angelo once belonging to the Passionist fathers but now Maestro Kuhn’s Montegral singing finishing school.
This was the programme of the liturgy:
The convent has become our traditional Christmas Eve venue. For more on Montegral see my posts at:
Then back home at around 3 am and a good sleep before Christmas day!